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One learned that the traditional Indian spice mix podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves two people

14 ounces waxy potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two garlic pieces, peeled and grated
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
Forty milliliters flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Pour the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its highest setting, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, scattered with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.